Reinterpreted
With all the cooking, planning, and preparation that goes into Thanksgiving, it can be easy to overlook the cooking that might be necessary for the weekend’s breakfasts, brunches, or afternoon tea and coffee, especially if you are entertaining. When guests come in from out of…
With all the cooking, planning, and preparation that goes into Thanksgiving, it can be easy to overlook the cooking that might be necessary for the weekend’s breakfasts, brunches, or afternoon tea and coffee, especially if you are entertaining. When guests come in from out of town, the amount of work in the kitchen increases ten-fold, and it can be so tempting to take shortcuts (as you should!). But, it’s also nice to really pamper everyone with a special treat, something other than the big turkey dinner.
One of my favorite traditional Filipino meriénda (snack, similar to an afternoon tea) pastries is the Ensaymada, a brioche that has its origins from the Spanish Ensaïmada. While the Spanish Ensaïmada traditionally uses saïm, a reduced pork lard, in the Philippines, the brioche is butter based. Filled with shredded Queso de Bolla (Edam cheese) and topped with butter and sprinkled with sugar, it’s delightfully sweet and savory at the same time (though more sweet, to my taste buds’ happiness). Perfect with a cup of dark roasted coffee, it is a wonderful brioche all year round, though in the Philippines it is especially popular around the Christmas holidays.
My relatives on my Father’s side of the family make a phenomenal traditional Ensaymada, and nothing used to please me more than a platter of these buttery buns delivered to the house during the holidays. We would savor them with hot chocolate, licking the buttery sugar from our fingertips. I have discovered that what used to seem exceedingly daunting to create is actually not that difficult. Yes, it does take time, however, the bulk of the work can be done the day before, and working with the dough, is, oddly, calming.
I thought it might be fun to reinterpret the Ensaimada once more, this time with a spiced pumpkin mascarpone filling. In this reincarnation, the Pumpkin Mascarpone Ensaymada takes on a more savory tone, a lovely interlude to the larger celebration at hand. I’m afraid I will never be able to have another Thanksgiving holiday without it.
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There were some amazing bloggers that were also, to my great sadness, eliminated in the last round of Project Food Blog. Many of us had already created a baked good using the required seasonal ingredient, pumpkin, in preparation for Challenge 9. In the spirit of fun and Thanksgiving, some of us are sharing these delicious treats today! Hope you enjoy! For more pumpkin inspiration, please visit:
Asha of Fork Spoon Knife
Heena of Tiffin Tales
Josie of Daydreamer Desserts
Lindsey of Hot Polka Dot
Winnie of Healthy Green Kitchen
Pumpkin Mascarpone Ensaymada
Makes a baker’s dozen.
Mix then set aside:
- 3½ tsp yeast
- ¼ cup lukewarm water
- 1½ tsp white sugar
Heat then cool:
- ½ cup milk
Remaining ingredients
- 3 cups all purpose flour
- ½ cup white sugar
- 3 egg yolks
- ¼ cup melted butter
- 1/4 cup canned pumpkin or pumpkin purée
- ½ cup all purpose flour (for allowance)
For the filling and topping:
- 1/2 cup canned pumpkin
- 3/4 cup packed brown sugar
- 1 tsp ground cinnamon
- 1/2 tsp ground ginger
- 1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
- 1/4 tsp vanilla
- 1/8 tsp ground cloves
- 8-oz mascarpone cheese
- 2-3 tbsp white sugar and 2 tbsp softened butter for topping
Preheat oven to 375° F.
Whisk flour and sugar in a large bowl. Add egg yolks, melted butter, milk and yeast mixture. Mix everything until nearly incorporated, then add pumpkin puree. Knead until well blended and binded, then transfer into a greased bowl. Cover with a dishcloth, and let rise for 1 hour.
Make the filling by combining canned pumpkin, brown sugar, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, vanilla, and cloves in a bowl. Stir in the mascarpone cheese till well blended. Set aside in the refrigerator.
Turn dough out onto board, punch out the air, then roll and cut into a dozen or so pieces of equal size. Roll each portion into a thin rectangle. Smear about 1-2 tsp of the filling, leaving a border on the edges. Fold edges over and roll, almost like an egg roll, to form a small log. Pinch seams shut and roll the little log until you can form a coil or snail shape. Place in a brioche pan or standard sized muffin pan. Let rise for another hour or overnight in the refrigerator.
Brush with butter, sprinkle with sugar, and bake at 375° for 15-20 minutes or until light brown.
This is such a nice combination of pumpkin and mascarpone! I wish I had this recipe before I made pumpkin gratin just now.
Liren, You are so kind to post the links. The bread looks gorgeous. I am sure it is as well delicious!! Missing you girl!! Shulie BTW you did an astonishing job at foodbuzz sorry not to see you advance you totally deserve to!!
Hi Liren-I am so sad you didn’t go through to round 8. You always impress me with your creations! This bread looks delicious! Great links to pumpkin dishes. :)
Liren these look absolutely spectacular. I was so sorry to see you go from PFB but hey, you don’t need a contest to prove how amazing you are! xox
I always learn something new from you. These are lovely with a cup of tea and some fresh jam…..
I’m so surprised, how come I’ve never had any of this before? This looks like a true definition of comfort food, yess? Hope you had a great Thanksgiving by the way!
– Dea
This I am sure would be a perfect bite with tea…Awesome
I have a lot of Filipino colleagues they would be very surprised if I came into work with these one day. I actually have a staff meeting on Tuesday and may make these to share. Thanks so much it looks amazing!
I hope you do try them! It’s definitely an interesting twist to the traditional ensaymada; I would love to know what your colleagues think!
The back story is so interesting. I love learning about other cultural traditions. Is that pork fat different than lard? Would it just be rendered leaf lard from under the ribs of the pig? Your brioche look so lovely and how could pumpkin and mascarpone not be delectable? I am consistently amazed by your creativity.
:)
Valerie
Hi Valerie! Such a good question about the saim. My understanding is that it is just general pork lard (the word saim is the Catalan term for lard), though I’m not certain on the details of where they render the lard. I would love to learn more!
Liren, another winning post! Thank you for introducing me to this delectable treat with a pumpkin twist. I love discovering new international recipes and definitely going to try my hand at this. Or maybe I’ll wait till Lindsey makes them and sends me a sample :)
Thank you! If you or Lindsey do try them, I would love to know!
Great recipe!! Looks so delicious. I love mascarpone, and would love to try this when I get home.
Have a Happy Thanksgiving!
Thanks, Melissa! Hope you had a wonderful Thanksgiving, too!
Oh my goodness…these look like the best things I’ve seen all week, maybe all month! I would love to make these over the next few weeks. I’m officially bookmarking this page and moving it to my “MUST BAKE” folder. Thank you for sharing! I hope you have a blessed day with your family and friends tomorrow!
Happy Thanksgiving, Monet! These ensaymadas are right up your alley – I hope you enjoy them! How did your Thanksgiving turn out? Did you stick with making a turkey after all or were you able to convince your sister otherwise?
Oh those are so cute! I guess every country has its own version of brioche, but I love yours, its color, its filling, its cuteness. Simply irresistible! Happy Thanksgiving!
Hi Silvia! Oh yes, it’s so interesting to see each country’s version of brioche isn’t it? It amazes me, all the different variations. Hope you had a good Thanksgiving :)
Liren: how awesome: this is the first time I have heard of these cute snacks (I love finding new ethnic foods). Wish you could have stayed in the game. Awesome work! Amelia
Hi Amelia! Glad to introduce you to the ensaymada! I will have to do a traditional version next time – it’s just as lovely!
What a beautiful pastry. It really invites a nibble. Wonderful spicy filling. It is so easy to get sidetracked from the meals surrounding the big day.
Oh yes, I have been so guilty of ignoring other meals when Thanksgiving is around. Having this as a snack is also a nice way to force yourself to rest :)
Perfect little baked goodness! I am right there with you when it comes to forgetting about the “after” Turkey Day feedings! I spent about an hour in the store yesterday thinking about breakfasts for the weekend. I will be making these!
Hi Jen! I hope you enjoy these when you make them. Isn’t it so challenging to plan out a full weekend of menus? It does get so overwhelming!
Great recipe and it was nice to share the recipes of the other bloggers. I was sad also to see them go.
Hi Angela – I know! So many talented bloggers – I was really hoping to see them progress to the end! They are all winners to me :)
This looks amazing…I’m totally trying this!
Thanks Amy!
this is a great twist on the ensaymada, love mascarpone and they go so well with pumpkin. OK, major cravings now, haha.
Enjoy your family this coming Thanksgiving!
Hope you had a wonderful Thanksgiving Caroline! These ensaymadas are totally different, but I just love them!
Liren…I love your re-invention of a traditional favorite. I am a big fan of ensaymada (I’m one of the few that actually prefer it without cheese) and a fan of pumpkin anything. And I’m going to try and make it this weekend. I’ll let you know how it turns out. Hope you and your family have a wonderful and blessed Thanksgiving holiday!
Definitely let me know how they turn out, Geri! Wishing you and yours a wonderful Thanksgiving!
Yum! Fantastic interpretation ~ anything that pairs pumpkin, mascarpone, and pastry is high on my list if to try…
Thank you, Laura!
In Italy we call it “merenda” but we don’t have something this good! I tried the Ensaimadas in Mexico but I need to try these ones with butter instead of lard. That already was good enough to convince me to try it. Then I got to the list of ingredients for the filling and I literally started to drool. I sure have never had them with mascarpone in the filling. Now I’m totally into these ensaymadas!
Ah, if you’ve liked the Ensaimadas in Mexico, then you’ll love the butter based Ensaymada for sure!
You know how I feel already… so i’m not going to talk about it. But I will tell you that these look incredible… in particular the crusty outside with the airy inside. Reminds me a little of a popover. Love it!
Ah yes, these are reminiscent of little popovers!
Oh my I have to try these…well I won’t try to bake them I’ll beg Grely, lol
These are amazing! How fun that everyone is going ahead with their pumpkin challenge, I will stop by and check them all out :)
I wish you a most amazing Thanksgiving!
Wishing you a wonderful Thanksgiving, too!
Looks absolutely amazing Liren! To my misfortune I’ve honestly never heard of ensaymadas, but I’m definitely going to have to try them!
Hi Lindsey! Tis my pleasure to introduce you to these treats – hope you try them one day :)
Hi, Liren! So sorry you didn’t continue in the contest! I voted for you, too! :/
These buns look delectable! I love sweet/savory and these look perfect for an afternoon snack, breakfast, whenever! Happy Turkey Day!
Aw, Donna, thank you – I appreciate all your support in PFB. And yes, these ensaymadas are perfect any time of day! Hope you had a great Thanksgiving :)
A wonderful twist, Liren. I remember enjoying ensaymada and hot chocolate back home. Love the butter and cheese! And your pumpkin mascarpone ensaymada is a lovely reinterpretation!
Hi Jun! Nothing compares to the classic ensaymada, but this is such a fun variation, I couldn’t resist!
These are gorgeous and look SO delicious. Have to admit I’m a bit pumpkin’ed out, but will file this one away for another day. ps so glad I got you know your lovely blog through PFB…have added you to my blogroll and will be visiting again and again.
Winnie, thank you so much for the blog roll mention! I appreciate it – and I’m so glad that PFB brought me to your blog, too! If i had to pick one memorable aspect of the competition, it would be meeting so many wonderfully talented people like you!
Wow I’m always impressed with everything you make and this is no exception! The bread looks so flavorful! I wish you would have made it onto the 8th round (I voted for you! ) but I’m so happy you’re sharing what you would have made for the challenge!! And thank you for the links to the other bloggers who are sharing their pumpkin dishes.
Lindsey, I can’t tell you how much I appreciate your votes and your sweet words! I’m so so glad you like this creation!
YAY!! you made bread too!!! awesome! love that you chose this particular snack item and reinterpreted. I’d love to have it with tea, chatting with family and friends. In my mind, I am painting a very cozy picture around it! :D
Great minds think alike! There’s nothing better than sharing these treats with a warm cup of tea and the goodness of loved ones!