Baking in the American South with Anne Byrn

Anne Byrn is an award-winning New York Times bestselling food writer and author of beloved cookbooks, including American Cookie, American Cake, and the Cake Mix Doctor. Anne publishes the weekly newsletter, Between the Layers, one of the top 20 food and drink newsletters worldwide on Substack. She recently joined me on the podcast, where we chatted about her latest book, Baking in the American South: 200 Recipes and Their Untold Stories.

Baking in the American South dives into the history of the South, from Texas to Florida, Kentucky to Tennessee, and more—where she weaves stories and recipes from pre-Civil War times to today’s modern Southern kitchens. The history behind some of the most iconic and unique biscuits, cakes, pies, and more makes this a definitive guide on the richness of Southern baking.In this episode, we chat about the origins of Southern baking, the stories behind iconic regional recipes, and Anne’s process of preserving culinary history in her latest cookbook. Listen to the full episode or keep reading for some of the highlights from our conversation.

How did you get started in cookbook writing?

I started baking when I was about ten or eleven, experimenting with boxed mixes. My mother was a wonderful cook and let me explore freely in the kitchen. Growing up in Nashville, I was surrounded by family who loved sharing recipes, especially my mother and her four sisters, for whom homemade was always best. 

My journey into cookbook writing began in journalism. I spent 15 years in Georgia as the Food Editor for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution. During that time, I became interested in the stories behind the recipes—the history and the people who brought each dish to life.

“We are so often on deadline and trying to get dinner on the table fast, but it is important to learn the story behind the recipe and sit down and read a cookbook, even when you aren’t cooking,” says Anne. “A cookbook can read like a novel and take you to a different place and time, making them a great way to honor people of the past and present.”

Tell us more about your new book, Baking in the American South

Baking in the American South dives into the stories and history behind recipes that have shaped Southern kitchens for centuries and celebrates the simple regional ingredients like corn, wheat, and more.

Of course, cornbread is quintessential Southern cooking, so it is covered in the first chapter. 

“Corn fed the south, and it grows everywhere in the southeast, from Texas to Maryland,” says Anne. 

But, the ingredients used in Southern cooking are not quite simple. As Anne explains, there are many varieties of corn and other classic ingredients. The variety you use matters greatly, whether it’s white, yellow, blue, or red cornmeal, and how it is ground. It affects the flavor and texture of what you’re baking. 

“Every choice, like the type of corn, shapes the character of a dish,” says Anne. 

To honor Southern history, I researched this book extensively, consulting archives, Southern cookbooks, and experts from across the 14 Southern states. I approached the work as a journalist, even sourcing images that capture moments in time and illustrate each recipe’s roots. 

With so much regional variation, from the rich delta flavors of West Tennessee to the apple-rich mountains of the East, this book captures both the unity and diversity of Southern baking.

If you’re picking up the book, I recommend starting with a cornbread or biscuit recipe—choose one that resonates with you or uses ingredients you already have. Then, work your way toward the more unique recipes. And remember: reading through a recipe beforehand is key to ensuring you’re prepared with ingredients at the ready. As I always say, “A prepared cook is a better cook,” especially with baking.

Learn more

Listen to the full podcast episode here, learn more on their website, annebyrn.com, and follow along on Instagram @annebyrn.

Baking in the American South,
200 Recipes and Their Untold Stories
by Anne Byrn
Harper Celebrate, 2024

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